Carnitas, a Taco’s Dream

Last weekend, as you might have heard, it reached around 90 degrees F here on the East Coast. Ninety degrees!! Good grief. As much as I am not quite ready for that heat yet, it did get me in the mood for some warm weather food, and one  of the things B and I love to eat as the sun grows warmer on our skin is tacos. I had picked up a pork shoulder from Kingbird Farm last weekend at the farmer’s market, and I knew it was time to make carnitas.

I use a Cook’s Illustrated recipe and method for the carnitas, which really couldn’t be simpler. The pork is cut into chunks, seasoned with salt & pepper, and placed in a heavy Dutch oven with an orange (juice squeezed into the pot first), bay leaves, an onion, dried oregano and cumin. As with any braise, you add enough liquid (in this case, water) to come about halfway up the sides of the meat.

About 2 hours in the oven renders the pork lusciously tender, so tender you can just pull it apart with your fork. The juice left in the pot is reduced down and tossed with the pork chunks to moisten them a bit, and then comes a neat trick: you want to transform the soft chunks of pork into tidbits that are soft on the inside but crispy and brown on the outside, so you spread them out on a wire rack set on a baking sheet and broil them for a few minutes. What emerges is ultra flavorful, with equal parts of deliciously crispy brown bits and soft, tender pork.

We tucked the carnitas into warm corn tortillas along with some red cabbage, cilantro, and local goat’s milk feta. As always, I’d recommend buying good quality, grass-fed pork from a local farm if you can — makes all the difference in flavor! The Bitten Word has the recipe in full posted on their web site, so I’ll send you there since I follow it pretty closely, and stay tuned later this week for the dessert that ended this meal (hint: it’s cold, creamy and dairy-based….and I scream for it!)

Ramp, Bacon & Ricotta Tart

Ever since discovering that patch of ramps on our land last weekend, I’ve been trying to think of different ways to use them. I’ve been throwing a few into dishes we’ve had all week; sauteed with greens in place of garlic, they’re terrific. Paired with eggs, they are fabulous. But the mother of all combinations, for me at least, has got to be any kind of pork product paired with these skinny, stinky (no, not stinky: delightfully aromatic!) little buggers. I was craving bacon and ramps in a pairing, had some terrific Piggery bacon to use, and came up with the idea for this tart.

And because I was in the middle of quite a few things when I made it (we are in the process of starting the house building adventure, which means there are always lots of things to be done every day!), I tried to streamline the prep process slightly. The crust comes together easily in the food processor, and you can either pre-bake the shell in a tart pan as I did, or you could do a free-form galette, rolling the dough out, spooning the filling into the middle, and folding the edges back over part of the filling. That might be a nice rustic look.

I use dried beans to weigh down the shell while pre-baking it (kidney beans, actually, since they’re my least favorite. ugh.)

The Piggery’s bacon is awesome: deliciously meaty and marbled with fat

I used one pan to first cook the bacon, then I used some of the leftover bacon fat to saute the spinach and shallots that would go into the ricotta filling. Into the food processor the bacon-fat-sauteed spinach and shallots went, along with some creamy ricotta and an egg. The ramps were then quickly wilted in the same pan, with a little bit of leftover bacon fat.

ready to whirl in the egg

wilt the ramps in the same pan you cooked the bacon in – yum

ready to go in the oven

The ricotta mixture formed the base of the tart, and I crumbled the bacon and layered the wilted ramps on top…and look how prettily it emerged:

et voila!

It tasted pretty darn fantastic, too. I think this would be a great brunch, lunch, or picnic dish — though we happily ate big slices of it for dinner one night this week along with a salad of dark, leafy greens, roasted beets, goat cheese and pepitas. The essence of bacon you get throughout the tart — not overpowering at all, just enough to give a little depth of flavor and smokiness — is, in my mind, out of this world and a perfect partner to the ramps. They’ll only be around for a few more weeks, so cook ‘em if you can get ‘em!

Oh, one last thing — I’m on Twitter now! You can follow me here, or by clicking the cute little button with the bluebird on the upper right of the blog.

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an Eggs on Sunday original

view printable recipe

If you don’t feel like using a tart pan, you could make this as a free form tart (galette). Skip the step for prebaking the tart shell, and instead, spread the filling in the center of the rolled out round of dough, leaving a 3 inch border of dough around the filling, then fold that border back up and over the filling.

Ingredients
For the tart crust:
3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
8 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
3 tablespoons ice water, plus more as needed

For the tart filling:
4 slices of good quality bacon
1 large shallot, sliced
3 cups (packed) spinach
1 1/2 cups ricotta
1 large egg
salt and pepper, to taste
about 18 ramps, cleaned and bulb ends trimmed

Directions

In a food processor, combine the flours and salt and pulse to combine. Add the pieces of cold unsalted butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the 3 tablespoons ice water, then pulse in 1 second bursts until the mixture resembles curds and clumps (you can add a little more water if needed.) Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface, gather it together in a ball, flatten into a disk shape and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 1 hour or more.

To pre-bake the tart shell, roll it out and fit it into a 9-inch tart pan, trimming off any excess (you can save the excess dough to patch any tears that might appear in the dough.) Prick the bottom of the shell with a fork all over, then lay a piece of foil into the shell and fill the foil with dried beans (they’ll act as weights to keep the shell from puffing up in the oven.) Bake in a 375 degree F oven for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and beans and bake for an additional 7 minutes or so, until the dough loses it’s glossiness and turns ever so slightly golden brown around the edges. Remove the shell from the oven, keeping it in the pan, and cool on a rack.

When you’re ready to assemble the tart, cook the bacon in a large, heavy saute pan until browned and crisp. Remove to a cooling rack to drain off any excess fat. Pour off the bacon fat (save it to cook other things with!) until there’s about a tablespoon left in the pan. Return the pan to medium high heat and saute the sliced shallots until softened, then add the spinach and cook the mixture just until wilted.

Transfer the spinach/shallot mixture to the bowl of a food processor. Add the ricotta cheese, egg, and a generous pinch of freshly ground black pepper (I found it didn’t need much additional salt since the bacon is kind of salty.) Puree the mixture until the spinach is chopped, and set aside.

In the same pan you used to cook the bacon and spinach, add the whole ramps and a little bit of water. Cook just until the ramp greens have wilted, and set aside.

Transfer the ricotta/spinach mixture into the tart shell. Top with the crumbled bacon slices, then arrange the wilted ramps over the top. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, and bake for about 35-45 minutes in a 375 degree F oven, until the top is just starting to turn brown, the filling is slightly puffed and set, and the crust is golden brown.

Serves 4 generously.

Giveaway Winner, and First Farmer’s Market Meal

First things first — wow, apparently there are a lot of you out there that love Greek yogurt (or really want to try it!) So, using the random number generator, the winner of the Stonyfield giveaway is…#60, Heather S.! Congrats, Heather; I’ll be in touch with you for your contact info so you can receive the book of goodies from Stonyfield. Thanks to all who commented!

And now, onto more good eating: namely, our farmer’s market has been open for a few weeks! Selection in early April usually includes spinach, ramps from Kingbird Farm, plenty of great meat from a few of my favorite farmers, and flowers galore.

welcome back! spiffy new sign…

Blue Heron Farm had lots of six-packs of greens and herbs

West Haven Farm was loaded up with gorgeous tulip bouquets

“bread not bombs” – a great motto

I love Fat Boy Bakery’s bread

This is what I look for in early spring! Kingbird Farm comes through again.

The lovely Heather, one half of the husband-wife duo who owns The Piggery

Our first market meal this year was this pasta dish: spicy Italian sausage from The Piggery (great stuff!) sauteed with garlicky sliced ramp bulbs, then tossed together with linguine, delicate spinach, and the green ramp tops; a little pasta cooking water brings the mixture together. It was a great early spring meal: still a little hearty with the sausage since it’s still cool, but with lots of fresh, bright, green flavors.

brown up the sausage, stir in the ramp bulbs

spicy and spring-y

Oh, and speaking of ramps — I look forward to them every year at the market; they’re only available for a few weeks, and their flavor is incredibly delicious. For those of you who haven’t seen or tasted ramps, they’re wild leeks, often found growing in open wooded areas near water, and their taste is a combination of garlic and pungent scallion, both in the bulb and carried through more delicately into the green tops. They often come with dirt clinging to the root end, so you need to clean them as you would a scallion, usually slipping off the top layer of skin where dirt is trapped.

clean the bottoms off the little stinky buggers

I usually buy a few bunches at the market each week while they’re available, but I had a great surprise this past weekend. I seem to have forgotten to mention here on EoS that B and I bought some acreage this past year, and we’re building a house on the land this summer(!) — and on the land is a wooded area, near a little pond. Well, we were walking through there on Saturday, and guess what we stumbled upon?

<gasp!> can it be?!

what makes my weekend? seeing these little guys popping out of the ground!

RAMPS!! A whole patch of them, growing near the edge of the woods by the pond. A ramp patch of our own! Weeeeeehoooo, good eating awaits! I foresee many early spring celebratory ramp dishes in our future…

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Linguine with Spicy Sausage, Spinach and Ramps

an Eggs on Sunday original

view printable recipe

Ingredients
1 pound good-quality hot Italian sausage, removed from casings
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 bunches of ramps (about 36), bulbs cleaned and sliced, green tops reserved
4 ounces organic spinach
1 pound linguine
parmigiano-reggiano cheese, for serving (optional)

Directions

Heat the olive oil over medium high heat in a large heavy skillet until shimmering. Add the sausage, out of its casing, and cook until browned and no longer pink, breaking up the chunks as it cooks. Add the sliced ramp bulbs and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant.

Meanwhile, cook the linguine in a large pot of salted boiling water. When the linguine is done cooking, drain it and reserve about 2 cups of the pasta cooking water. Add the drained linguine directly into the skillet with the sausage and ramp bulbs, then add in the spinach and green ramp tops. Toss together to combine, adding a little pasta water as you toss, until the pasta is moistened and the spinach and ramp tops are wilted but still bright green. Season generously with freshly ground black pepper, and more salt if needed.

Serve with grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, if desired.

Serves 6.

Vanilla Yogurt Panna Cotta, and a Giveaway

I’ve mentioned before that I’m a big fan of Greek yogurt. We were going through containers of Fage yogurt at an alarming rate, so much so that I said to myself “stop the madness!” and began making my own yogurt. Which, to date, has been a very satisfying and delicious endeavor, but sometimes I do miss the thick, stand-a-spoon-in-it creaminess and texture of Greek yogurt.

But, happy days, someone from Stonyfield Farm contacted me the other day to ask if I’d be interested in sampling some of their new organic Greek yogurt, called Oikos. Of course! And it’s really very good: deliciously creamy, thick, and it comes in two sizes — 16 oz tubs of the plain variety (which is what I always buy) and smaller individual cups with fruit or honey on the bottom. And as much as I love the creaminess and texture, the fact that it’s made with organic milk just gilds the lily.

In addition to eating the yogurt with fruit and granola, blending it into a dip with spinach and garlic, and making fruit smoothies, I also took advantage of the yogurt’s creamy thickness to use in a vanilla panna cotta. Panna cottas are unbelievably easy to make (David Lebovitz just had a nice primer on how to make the perfect panna cotta) and lusciously light on the tongue…I like to make them year round, serving them with seasonal fruit. Since berries won’t be in season here until May or June (arrrrgh! it can’t come soon enough!), I decided to make a honeyed pomegranate syrup to spoon over the panna cottas. The sauce is tangy, a little sweet, and a great foil for the vanilla-bean infused panna cotta.

And here’s the giveaway: the folks at Stonyfield Farm have offered an Oikos coupon package and other goodies for one lucky reader! So if you’d like to try some, go ahead and leave a comment and let me know: have you ever tried Greek yogurt? If so, what’s your favorite way to eat it? I’ll leave the comments open until midnight on Sunday, and will choose and announce the winner using the random number generator on Monday. Good luck!

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Vanilla Yogurt Panna Cotta

Adapted from Food and Wine

view printable recipe

Ingredients
1 envelope unflavored gelatin (2 1/4 teaspoons)
2 tablespoons cold water
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
One 16-ounce tub of Greek yogurt

Directions
Place cold water in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over; let it stand until softened for about 5 minutes.

In a small saucepan, bring the cream, sugar, and vanilla bean and seeds to a simmer. Turn off the heat and stir in the gelatin; keep stirring until the gelatin is fully melted.

Whisk the yogurt in a large bowl until smooth, then gradually whisk in the vanilla cream. Divide the mixture among six 1/2 cup ramekins. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours, until set.

To serve, run a knife around the inside of each ramekin. Set a plate on each ramekin and invert each panna cotta onto a plate; you may have to tap and shake the ramekins to loosen the panna cottas.

Makes 6 panna cottas.

Honeyed Pomegranate Syrup

Ingredients
16 ounces pomegranate juice, such as POM Wonderful
2 tablespoons honey

Directions

Combine pomegranate juice and honey in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and continue simmering over medium high heat until the mixture has reduced and thickened slightly into a syrup. Cool and refrigerate in an airtight container.

Maple Soufflés for Edible Finger Lakes Magazine

One of the most delightful things that has happened to me as a result of keeping this blog has been the opportunity to meet scores of wonderful, like-minded food lovers…other bloggers, readers, and most recently, the editors of Edible Finger Lakes magazine. They approached me early in the year to ask if I’d be interested in writing the Seasonal Cooking column in the magazine, and of course I jumped at the chance! Edible Finger Lakes focuses on the local food and wine being produced in our region, highlighting various farmers, winemakers, local food products, and stories related to our foodshed. It’s one of the 54+ regional magazines operating independently under the Edible Communities umbrella. Chances are, there’s a magazine devoted to your local food region (you can see the full list of Edible publications here), and if there is, you should most definitely check it out!

The Spring 2009 issue is out this week, and the topic of my Seasonal Cooking column: Eggs! How appropriate, right? I’m  devoted to the eggs that I get at our market from local farmers, laid by hens that graze on pasture and eat greens, grubs and seeds. Their thick whites and vivid yellowy-orange yolks make them a dream to cook with and give them a wonderfully rich taste. As many of you know, the eggs laid by hens raised on pasture are an entirely different creation than the mass-produced eggs found in the supermarket, and I like supporting my local farmers who are raising chickens in a more natural, humane way (plus it makes for very good eats.)

For the column, I created a few recipes that showed off the egg’s versatility. Since early spring equals maple season around here, one of the recipes I decided to create is a maple soufflé, that would utilize both the yolks (for the maple pastry cream base) and the whites (whipped to peaks and folded into the pastry cream, giving the soufflé its lift and oomph.)

I was thrilled with how they turned out, and I hope you try them at home, too. Soufflés are actually quite a bit easier than their reputation suggests; I’ve heard crazy rumors about how just closing the oven door too hard will make your soufflés fall, but happily, that’s not true. This version tastes a little reminiscent of a pancake to me, with the maple flavor, and it’s light on the tongue and beautiful to present.

If you live in the Central New York area between (and including) Syracuse and Rochester — the 14 counties making up the Finger Lakes region — you can visit the Edible Finger Lakes web site to find a location in your county that carries the magazine. For everyone else, there might be PDF versions of the magazine available online in another few months, when our next issue — Summer — is out. And do check out the list of Edible Communities publications to find out if there’s a magazine for your region!

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Maple Soufflés

as published in Edible Finger Lakes magazine

view printable recipe

Ingredients

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided, at room temperature
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ cup milk
Pinch of salt
¼ cup pure maple syrup, preferably dark amber
4 eggs, separated
¼ cup sugar, plus additional for dusting ramekins
Directions

Preheat the oven to 350º F. Generously coat the insides and top rims of six ¾ cup ramekins with 2 tablespoons of the butter, brushing upwards in vertical strokes (this will help the soufflés rise.) Sprinkle sugar into each of the ramekins, rotating them around to coat the sides, and tap out the excess. Set the ramekins on a small baking sheet and place the them in the refrigerator while you make the soufflé batter. In a small saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat until it melts. Whisk in the flour to form a roux, and continue whisking the roux over medium heat for 1 minute. Slowly add the milk, whisking all the while until the mixture is smooth. Continue cooking the mixture, whisking constantly, until it thickens considerably (it should be similar to a paste.) Take the pan off the heat and stir it to cool down slightly; it should be warm but not steaming. Whisk in a pinch of salt and the maple syrup until it is thoroughly incorporated. One by one, add the egg yolks, whisking to combine after adding each one. Transfer this egg yolk mixture to a large bowl and set aside. Whip the egg whites with a whisk (or a whisk attachment on an electric mixer) until they are very foamy. Gradually add ¼ cup sugar, and continue beating until the egg whites form stiff peaks. Fold 1/3 of the egg whites into the egg yolk base to lighten it. Continue gently folding in the remainder of the egg whites, in 2 more additions. Divide the soufflé batter among the ramekins, smooth the tops with a spatula, and wipe off any batter stuck to the top rims. Bake for 25 minutes, until soufflés are risen and golden brown on top. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 individual soufflés.

Easter Breakfast Ideas

Easter is in two days, and my parents are coming into town for the weekend. In addition to a trip to the farmer’s market and dinner out at one of our favorite restaurants on Saturday night, we’ll end the weekend with a nice breakfast on Sunday morning. For those of you who celebrate Easter (or, for anyone just looking for some nice spring breakfast ideas!) I thought I’d post a little roundup of some of my favorite spring breakfast dishes from blog posts past.

You could go the baked goods route…

Blueberry Crumb Cake

Cinnamon Swirl Biscuits

Double Berry Scones

Strawberry Cinnamon Sugar Muffins

…or maybe something a little more eggy strikes your fancy (as it always does mine):

Breakfast Crostini with Poached Egg, Wilted Spinach and Bacon

Breakfast Strata with Greens, Gruyere and Sausage

Herb-Baked Eggs

Mushroom, Cheddar & Chive Crustless Quiche

Mushroom, Spinach and Goat Cheese Fritatta

Polenta ‘Pizza’ with Pancetta, Spinach, and Poached Egg

Raspberry Lemon Baked French Toast

Soft Scrambled Eggs with Fresh Ricotta & Chives

Swiss Chard, Bacon and Cheddar Crustless Quiche

Happy Spring, Happy Weekend!

Fig, Goat Cheese, Prosciutto & Arugula Pizza

When I moved to Boston after college, I was flush with excitement about living in a big city. So many things to do, people to meet, excitement buzzing all around me. And since I was really beginning to fully realize my passion for food and cooking and eating (well, I’d always had a passion for eating), one of the things I was most excited about, of course, was all the great food and restaurants to try.

But not being from a big city, when I first moved there, all of the things to learn about getting around — learning the “T,” figuring out Boston’s streets (many of which seem to be laid out with no rhyme or reason) and just getting used to the city atmosphere was both exhilarating and a little overwhelming. I look back on that time now with a mixture of fondness and amazement, because after living there for some time, I came to regard Boston as a fairly small, walkable city — and pretty easy to get around (though I never did particularly enjoy driving there.)

One of my very first memories of my time in Boston was a dinner I had with a friend (who had gone to college in  Boston, and who I therefore regarded as a pro in all things city-related) in Chestnut Hill, at Todd English’s restaurant Figs. Now, for anyone who lives in the Boston area, you know that Chestnut Hill isn’t really in the thick of Boston proper, but for someone new to the area and city life, it seemed plenty urban. I walked into the restaurant with my friend, thinking to myself “wow, here I am in Todd English’s restaurant. He’s a famous chef! I’m so sophisticated.” For dinner, we ordered salads and a pizza to share. But, this was not my hometown pizza, slathered with tomato sauce, gooey cheese and your standard toppings…no, we ordered pizza with figs. And prosciutto. And goat cheese. And oh, as I bit into a slice, I thought to myself “I’m eating a pizza with figs! I am so sophisticated.” But beyond my self-awareness (which yes, is funny to look at in hindsight) I was amazed at how really wonderful a combination figs and goat cheese were on a pizza. Sweet and tart and savory…amazing.

It was one of those experiences that created an indelible memory for me, and taught me that there was a world of flavor combinations out there ready for me to discover: all I had to do was seek them out and eat with an open mind. Figs and goat cheese and prosciutto have remained one of my favorite food pairings, though what I’ve since found I like even more with them are a bit of arugula. A bite combining those flavors is, to me, pretty perfect: savory, salty, a bit sweet, and touched with arugula’s pepperiness. Delicious.

We love this combination on pizza (though it’s also fantastic in a sandwich, or as a crostini topping.) I spread the fig spread on the crust, top it with crumbled fresh local goat cheese, and bake it; once it comes out of the oven I add soft folds of prosciutto and a generous handful of arugula that I’ve drizzled with a little good olive oil and sprinkled with just a bit of coarse sea salt. It’s wonderful, and always brings me back to that dinner in Boston when I was so wide-eyed and ready to absorb all the experiences life had in store for me.

On a (non-food related) note, I was taking a walk the other day and guess what I came upon?

A red-tailed hawk. About 15 feet in front of me, scoping out a bunch of squirrels that were hunting for seeds on the ground. One squirrel ran right up to the hawk before he realized what a huge mistake he was making.

Then the hawk took off, flew right by me – close enough for me to reach out and touch – and swooped close to the squirrels…

…only to miss and alight up on a tree to better survey the situation.

Super exciting! A truly beautiful bird. Stuff like this makes my whole day.
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I’ve recently been making my pizza dough with a little semolina flour (Bob’s Red Mill brand), for a little boost of flavor. Also, I’ve been cranking the oven up a little higher than I was, to 525 or 550 degree F — as high as my oven will go — as I’m finding the higher heat + baking stone is a better simulation of a traditional bread or pizza oven. You get a crust that’s nicely crisp on the outside but chewy inside; I love it.

view printable recipe

Ingredients
1 lb pizza dough (I most often use the recipe listed here, using 2 cups AP flour + 1 cup semolina flour)
fig spread (recipe below)
4 ounces fresh goat cheese
about 2 ounces prosciutto
two generous handfuls of arugula, gently tossed with a little olive oil and coarse sea salt

Directions
Preheat the oven to 525 or 550 degrees F with a baking stone inside. Place your pizza crust on a lightly floured pizza peel (or the back of a lightly floured aluminum sheet pan). Spread some fig spread on your pizza crust, enough to coat it but not too thick. Dot with crumbled goat cheese, then slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is browned and the cheese is melted, about 5-8 minutes. Take the pizza out and top with folds of prosciutto and a mound of dressed arugula.

Fig Spread

This spread is just sweet enough — more like a savory & sweet fig puree than a cloyingly sweet jam.

Ingredients
4 ounces dried black Mission figs, chopped
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup red wine or ruby port
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar

Directions
Heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and caramelized. Add the chopped dried figs, the balsamic vinegar and the red wine, scraping up any brown bits that have accumulated on the bottom of the pan. Once the wine is almost evaporated, add the water and sugar. Simmer to reduce until the water is mostly evaporated and the figs are soft. Pour the mixture into a food processor and puree to the thickness you desire (I like mine fairly smooth.) Remove and cool; store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Makes about 1 cup.

April Fool’s “Eggs and Toast,” revisited

As today is April 1st, I thought I’d revisit a post I wrote last year on this day: my April Fool’s “Eggs and Toast.” Even in food, sometimes things are not as they seem…Enjoy!
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Originally published April 1, 2008

Looks like a soft-boiled egg with toast slices, right? April Fool’s! In actuality, it’s meyer lemon pudding (the egg “white”), meyer lemon curd (the egg “yolk”) and toasted cinnamon cake slices!

I saw this recipe from Gourmet on Epicurious a little while ago and have had it on my “to cook” list…what better occasion to make it than on April Fool’s day? I am most definitely not someone who lives for April Fool’s Day and all the pranks to be played — but I’m a sucker for foods that are created to look like something other than they are. The clever factor gets me every time!